A step at a time:
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Originator: Alan Bithell
|Wet fly, #12-20
|Dyed pheasant tail
(Full-size pictures on click.)
Mount a hook in the vise,
tie in the thread and cover the thorax area with thread.
bunch of pheasant tail barbs. The front part, with the tips,
should be about 1,3 - 1,5 x the total body length of the
Tie in the
bunch so the tip part point out forward past the hook eye.
rear part of the bunch up over the thorax area and secure it
there. We're using this surplus part to build up a little
larger thorax. This way we get the bulk above the hook shank
and keep a maximum hook gape. This makes this technique very
suitable for hooks also in the smaller size ranges.
waste of the surplus end as close to the thread as possible.
rest of the hook shank with thread and tie at the same time
in a piece of copper wire or ordinary round tinsel.
Tie in a
bunch of lighter colored material, here yellow pheasant tail
barbs. This fly should be seen more as an idea than a
pattern, since it's open for a lot of variants while still
keep the advantages of the actual bi-color technique. Note:
If weight is to be added, now is the time to do it.
yellow pheasant barbs have been wrapped up towards the eye
and been secured at the head of the fly.
done with the thread work and a whip-finish is made in a
time to get imitative.
barbs are folded back over the hook shank and tied down with
a wrap of tinsel/wire at the end of the body. A darker back,
a wingcase and a tail are created in one swift move.
to rib the wire forward and tie down the back barbs in
start of the thorax, finish off the wire with a couple of
half-hitches and cut the waste.
it's done. Quick, simple and imitative with few materials.
Strong factors defining a "perfect" fly.
hook with olive body.
variant, with yellow SLF dubbing for abdomen and peacock
herl for a thorax, but still based on the very same idea.