Step 1

As usual, mount a hook in the vise. This is a natural bend hook. A stimulator hook will also work to make it a little more imitative than the regular streamer hook.

Step 2

Tie in the thread and wrap it back to a point slightly beyond the barb, then return to where you started. Touching turns or, like this, crossed rib style is of personal preference. I like to think that material slips easier on a flat surface, so I chose this way.

Step 3

Tie in the rubber legs, beside eachother on top of the hook shank. Leave room for the whip-finish behind the hook eye.

Step 4

Tie down the rubber legs all the way down to the bend. Stretch them while wrapping to reduce bulk. Make a few wraps behind them to prevent them from being pressed down later. Then wrap the thread back up to about 2/5 of the body length.

Step 5

Time for underbody. Tie in a piece of antron yarn on both sides of the hook.

Step 6

Tie the strands down on both sides, 1/3 of the abdomen length and cut them.

Step 7

Fold back the ends to the right and tie them down on top of the shorter ones, continue another 1/3 of the body length and cut them. Then wrap the thread back up.

Step 8

Last antron tie-in. Yellow on the near side and black on the far side. These two will be used for the weave, so don't make them too short behind the hook.

Step 9

Finally, tie in the Krystal Flash. 4 black strands on the same side as the black Antron and 4 pearl strands together with the yellow Antron. Wrap the thread back up, secure it with a whip-finish or a couple of half-hitches and cut it.

Step 10

Take the strands and twist them slightly. Not tight enough to turn them into two hard ropes, just enough to make the filaments stay together and to spread the Krystal Flash strands around all sides.

Step 11

Now start your weaving. Compact and slippery differ these strands from the forgiving chenille strands, which readily collapse and stay in place by holding on to eachother. But after a couple of tries one will get the hang of these ones too. It's all about a balanced pressure on both sides. (For a detailed parallel weave tutorial, check here.)

Step 12

When reaching the end of the underbody, secure one of the strands with a full wrap by the other (yellow one on the picture). That will make you able to let go of the locked down strand without disturbing the last weave turn... and you'll have a free hand to pick up the bobbin and tie in the thread again and secure them both.

Step 13

Cut the waste at about half the thorax length and tie it all down to a tapered thorax underbody.

Step 14

Tie in a rooster hackle with the dull side up.

Step 15

Dub the thorax with Ice Dub. To make it compact, I use to make two thinner layers instead of just one thick.

Step 16

Wrap the hackle over the thorax and secure it under the hook, just behind the hook eye.

DONE!!!

Cut the waste, make a whip-finish behind the hook eye that will raise the rubber legs a little bit and finally cut the thread. Trim the rubber legs to the length you want... and there you have it.

Front view...

Is that a foxy bitch or what? I don't dislike the old original chenille "sausage". But, like always, the ones of the younger sparkly generation, with their slim sharp curves and their innocent natural glare, will always be the eye catchers... on the beach as well as in the fly-box. ;o)

Chartreuse (proven) variant......